This "Paraset" has been made, by G3VTT Colin, as another descendent of the original design. The original design had, for amateur radio purposes, poor band spread, switched antenna change over and used valves of lower gain.

This version has a built in TR switch using 4 diodes and its coverage is limited to 3.500 to 3.580 which with a single large tuning knob gives a more than required tuning rate. The original 6SK7 valves used as detector and audio have been replaced with 6SJ7's which give improves gain. Overall gain is more than enough and therefore a volume control has been fitted.

The set is a joy to use with its full break in and only development work to stabilise the detector supply voltage is required in the future which will keep the receiver on frequency as currently the HT supply changes as the 6V6 oscillator draws extra current on transmit. A more effective power supply is to be constructed.

The original design of Paraset was designed for speedy production and easy operation with a strong control station running typically 250 watts to 10 Kw as outlined by Pierre Lorraine in his book 'Clandestine Operation'.

Although this new approach excludes the constructor from joining another group, the excursion into a newer development is deemed necessary considering the boisterous amateur band conditions we now have. (Anyway no real radio constructor copies a circuit exactly, he uses the parts to hand!)



Here is a photo of the 12v D.C. power supply to run a Paraset from a 12v automobile battery. This psu has proven to be 100% reliable. It runs cold and only gets just discernably warm even after being left on for hours. The 9v-0-9v transformer must be 50VA rating. If you use the components as stated in the schematic (see the schematics page) then this psu will give trouble free running. It has turned out to be particularly well regulated and oscillates at just a little over 50Hz. No special precautions are needed to remove any interference since it does not produce a lot of electrical noise in operation. It is a wise precaution to at least build it in a metal box since this should provide all the screening needed.

Geoff likes to run the heaters from the 12v battery using a resistor as a voltage dropper to remove the excess 6v. This is wasteful in power terms but if you use a big enough dropping resistor (with a heat sink) is 100% reliable. If your Paraset uses two off 6SK7 and one off 6V6 the total current drain for the heaters will be 1.05A. Assuming your battery is a 12v battery (probably near to 13v in practice) then you need to drop approx 6.3v or so. This means a 6 or 7 ohm resistor will be needed.

The 6SJ7 will work in place of the 6SK7. The heater current is the same...0.3A at 6.3v. The 6V6 draws 0.45A at 6.3v. 12SK7 and 12SJ7 are also interchangeable, but the heater current in this instance is 0.15A at 12.6v. 12A6 has a 12.6v heater and draws 0.15A. So if you want to use 6v (actually 6.3v) heaters use 6SK7/6SJ7 and 6V6 valves. If you want to use 12v(actually 12.6v) heaters use 12SK7/12SJ7 and 12A6 valve line up.

Remember if you use the 6v heater valves from a 12v supply you will need a dropping resistor or appropriate regulator.